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Taper Stitch
Viking 1+ is A cassette, #17. The default width is 6.0.
Designer 1 is Menu F, #6. The default width is 6.0
DSE is Menu F, #6. The DSE default width is 7.0.
Read in your manual how to use it. But, here's some more help too.
Use presser foot B, either the clear or the metal one. (I prefer the clear).
I like to make a sample of how that taper will look with each elongation you
make. Then I know which one to choose. As you elongate, the stitch becomes
longer and the taper gets much thinner and pointed.
Make a sample stitch out
Put stabilizer under an 8 X 8 piece of white fabric and then use a colored
embroidery thread on top and embroidery "bobbin thread" in the bobbin and make
sure you thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case.
Now use a ruler and draw a horizontal line across the fabric about 1" from
the top raw edge .
Touch the taper stitch and then touch the "reverse
button" twice . This will bypass the top part of the taper stitch
and the center of the taper stitch and move to the bottom of the taper stitch
with the widest part first and tapering to the point .
Place your fabric under the foot and turn your hand wheel towards you and place
that needle right on the line on the left side of your fabric and sew out the
stitch.
With a pen, write #3 above it. That means we used the default
elongation of 3 to start. You can elongate to 2 and 1 if you wish
to do that too.
(The DSE is a bit different. When you choose the stitch, you will
see the length of the stitch, so the default size is 21.9.
Elongate to 4 and place the needle directly in that line again about 1" to
the right of the first stitch and do exactly the same thing and write #4 above
it.
Then change the elongation to 5, then 6, then 7 and 8. (On the DSE, touch the
Plus by length to enlarge, the minus to decease)
Now you have a sample of that taper in all those sizes.
When I measured from the straight part of that stitch to each point, I got
these measurements for the points. Depending on the machines, your measurement
might be different.
#3 was 3/8"
#4 was 7/16"
#5 was 1/2"
#6 was 11/16"
#7 was 3/4"
#8 was 1"
So I wrote those figures under the stitches so I would know how long each taper
was.
Let's do another change. The default width of that taper stitch was 6.0 (or
7.0 for the DSE). But, what if we wanted it narrower?
Let's change the width to 3 and do the same thing by drawing another line about
1" below the above stitches.
Then draw another line with the stitch width at 4, then 5 and do the same thing.
Now you will have a really good idea of how long you want the point and how
wide you want that satin stitch to be.
We used to be able to purchase a book called “ Awesome Automatic Taper
by Tracy Helmer” but I don't know if it is available any more. But
there is a new one offered now.
Click on this site www.countrystitches.com
Click on "products", and on the next screen, under category, click the arrow
and choose Viking Husqvarna books and in the search window, type "taper stitch".
The latest book should appear.
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