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Hooping and Non Hooping of Fabric
The plastic template that comes with your hoop is
very important. Once you have the design or combination of designs
on your Customizing screen, print it out. Then lay the template
on top of the printed out design so that the square grid on the
template is on top of the square grid of the printout. You will
notice that the vertical and horizontal center lines of the printout
will show in the slots of the template.
Now, using the template pencil (or a Vis a Vis marker,
about 10 colors for $4.99 at Walmart), draw around the outline
of the design enough so you know where the top, sides and bottom
of the design is. You don't have to draw all the inner parts. The
fabric will be seen through the template so you can decide exactly
where you want the design to be. (Or, cut the design printout on
the outer grid lines and tape it to the top printout with the template
slots so the outside grid lines of the printout match perfectly
with the template gridlines.) If you use this method, you will
have to cut the paper where the vertical and horizontal slots are
and also punch a hole for the center of the design so you can make
placement marks on your fabric.
Place the template on top of your fabric and look
at the design itself to see exactly where and what the direction
you want that design to be stitched on the fabric. Using a wash
away or disapperaing pen, mark the center dots and then mark the
top, bottom and side slots in the template.
Make sure you mark the arrow of the bottom slot so
you won't forget which is the bottom when you are hooping. You
will now have placement marks on the fabric. Then, I use a ruler
and I connect those lines horizontally and vertically to make a
large "+" sign.
(If you used the template pencil to draw the outline
of the design on the template, it can be cleaned with a paper towel
sprayed with glass cleaner. If you used the Vis a Vis marker, you
can just slightly wet a paper towel and wipe it clean.
Hooping Method # 1
I love the product called "Wonder Tape." It hangs
on the notions wall and is 1/4" wide and is double stick and sells
for about $2.95 and lasts forever.
Tear off 4 pieces about 3" long. Turn your inner
hoop over and place one piece along the top back of the hoop, and
one on the bottom and the others on each side. Tear off the paper
backing. This leaves a sticky film and will last about 6 hoopings
and then it is easily washed off.
Use your template to mark your placement lines on
the fabric you wish to embroider on. I actually then take a ruler
and connect those markings both vertically and horizontally. It
just makes it clearer when hooping.
I also use a black permanent marking pen to darken
those notches on the hoop on both the vertical and horizontal.
Just remember, if you have the 1+, the lower markings on the sides
are correct ones.
Now, carefully align that inner hoop so the markings
on the hoop match the markings on the cloth and then just press
down on the inner hoop and it will adhere to the fabric so the
hoop will not scoot around.
Place a piece of stabilizer that is larger than the
lower hoop over the top of it. Then lift the inner hoop with the
fabric attached and place the inner hoop into the outer hoop by
placing the bottom hoops together first and then holding the palm
of your one hand on the lower hoops, push the upper hoops into
position.
Once the inner hoop is securely in the outer hoop, then use the "screw grip" tool
to tighten the hoop knob until you feel it grasp tightly. Don't
over tighen or you will strip the screws.
Tip: I have a lot of that rubber shelf liner
and I cut a piece of that about 8" wide. I place that on the table
and place the bottom hoop on top of it. This keeps the bottom hoop
from scooting around when you are trying to place the inner hoop
and fabric into it.
Non-Hooping Method
A lot of times, in fact most of the time, I don't
hoop my fabric at all. Instead, I hoop the stabilizer. I use my
ruler and a #2 pencil to draw the vertical and horizontal lines
on top of the stabilizer using the markings on the hoop. (once
I used a pen and it bled into my fabric).
I use my template to draw in my placement lines on
the fabric as stated above.
Then, I lightly spray the stabilizer with KK2000
or another brand of spray adhesive, attach the hoop to the machine
and choose the design to embroider. Then take the marked fabric
and look for that center where the two marked lines on the fabric
connect and scoot it under the embroidery foot. Manually, turn
the handwheel to put the needle directly into that center mark
and this holds the fabric from moving. Then carefully, align the
markings on the fabric with the markings on the stabilizer and
gently smooth the material out on the stabilizer.

You can then use the baste feature to secure it even better. OR, before going
to the machine, you could stick a pin in the center placement mark on the fabric
and stick that point of the pin into the center mark of the stabilizer to line
up the fabric. Then stick a pin on the side and bottom markings to align them
on the stabilizer too.
Basting Around the Design for a Better Stitch-out
Basting on the Rose will require a basting design
that can be acquired from the internet.
Basting with the 1+: Press "baste" on your
sewing advisor and press "run" and the machine stitches to the
right. Press "E" to rotate and "run" and it sews down the right
side. Press "E" to rotate and press "run" to sew to the left. Repeat
to complete the square.
Basting with the Designer 1: Choose the design
and press "Fix" and "start" and it will baste the area of the design.
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