CRISWELL LACE DOILY
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SUPPLIES:
White or off-white embroidery thread
Bobbins wound with the same thread (at least 6) for stitching
the lace
#75 embroidery needle
Bobbin thread for stitching center design
1/3 yd. of Weaver's cloth
Badgemaster stabilizer
Embroidery design for the center of the doily
Criswell's Timeless designs
("Baroque" and "Brqcorner")
Click HERE
to Download Pattern
(Note: This file has been ZIP'd, so you will have to download
it and then use an unzipping utility -- such as Winzip
-- to unzip the file.)
You will need 10 Baroque designs and 4 Brqcorner
designs for this doily. I use my Customizing program to get
as many of these designs on the Customizing Screen as will fit in
the stitching area of the screen. Do not let the designs touch each
other. You can rotate the Baroque designs to fit more together.
Then I combine them and save them.
If you have the Viking 1+ or the Rose, use the plus
hoop vertical. I use 4 Barogue designs for one hooping. If you rotate
and mirror one of them so the straight edges face each other and
a bit offset of each other, you can fit 2 in P1 and 2 in P3. Make
sure nothing is out of bounds and then "combine" and save as "Sides".
If you use "color sort" and resave each position, it will eliminate
the color changes. Or you can touch the "stop" on the machine to
bypass color changes.
Then put one corner design in P1 and another in P3
and combine and save as "Corner".
If you have the Designer 1, I suggest the Mega Hoop
single vertical. I put 4 corner designs at the top side by side.
I then brought up the side design and place it underneath the corner
ones. I copied and pasted and placed the second design next to the
first. Paste another and placed it, pasted another and placed it.
If you rotate the designs and sort of angle the straight edges so
they face each other and slightly offset them, you can fit at least
5 and probably more on the screen. Make sure you are in the stitching
area at all times. You can use "color sort" to eliminate the color
changes. Or you can touch the "stop" button and it will not stop
for color changes.
Hoop up the Badgemaster and stitch all the designs
you need. Make sure you use the embroidery thread in the bobbins.
After the laces are completed, cut away the Badgemaster around the
outside edges of the lace leaving about 1/8. Remove the embroidery
unit and put embroidery bobbin thread in the bobbin.
Fabric Preparation: Use a cutting mat with
lines so you can lay the fabric on it to straighten one end of the
folded fabric. Then carefully line up the fabric on a straight line
and cut any excess off the other end. Cut the fabric on the fold
so you now have two pieces that are about 12 X 22". This will make
two doilies. Spray starch and iron one piece of fabric. I usually
spray starch mine heavily and let it dry overnight. Then I iron
it.
Placement lines for the lace motifs: We are
going to draw some lines that will make a rectangle that is 9" wide
X 20" long.
Lay one of the long straight edges on a straight line
on the cutting board and using a water soluble marking pen, draw
a center line across the width of the fabric. Draw another line
at the center of the lengthwise of the fabric.
Now, you have to be very careful with marking these
next lines. From the center crosswise mark, measure 10" to each
long end and use a ruler and a wash away marking pen to draw a line
at each end. From the center lengthwise line, measure 4 ½" on each
side to draw those lines using the ruler to make sure it is straight.
Measure 2 ¾" from each end drawn line (towards the
center of the fabric) and draw another line on each end. The drawn
lines should now measure 9" X 20" with a drawn line on each end
that is 2 ¾" from each end within those measurements. These lines
will be the placements for the lace motifs.
PLACE THE STRAIGHT EDGES OF THE MOTIFS ON THE DRAWN
LINES FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS. Place one motif on each
side of the horizontal center line with the straight edges right
on the drawn line. Pin in place. Then butt up another motif next
to end of each of those motifs and pin in place. Place motifs on
the opposite side of the doily in the same manner. You now have
4 motifs on each side of the doily.
You have two straight edge motifs left. Notice that
there is a point at the center of each of those motifs. Lay each
one of these motifs at the ends of the doily so that the straight
edge is on the line and the center lengthwise line goes right to
the point of each motif. In other words, the motif is centered on
the lengthwise line.
Place one of the corner motifs on that extra line
you drew. You will see that each straight end of the motif will
be butted up against the straight end of the motif at the end and
the motif at the side. It will be indented from the motifs on the
sides. You may have to scoot these motifs a bit so the ends touch
each other but do not move the center side ones. Just move the others
towards those as needed. My measurements are pretty accurate though.
Use a small zig zag stitch width 2.0 and stitch length
2.0. Use the clear B foot and the left swing of the needle should
land just off the edge of the lace. Stitch all of the straight edges
of the motifs to the fabric making sure that all ends of the laces
are butted against each other as you sew.
Change the stitch length to .5 and the SW to 3.0 and
stitch over those edges again. When stitching is completed, turn
the doily over and use appliqué scissors to cut very close to the
satin stitching to remove the excess fabric from under the motifs.
Choose a design to stitch in the center of the doily.
When stitching is completed, soak the doily in cool water first
to remove the marking pens markings and then soak in a pan of warm
water with the flame on simmer for about 1 hour to remove all the
stabilizer and make the lace very soft.
J.H.
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